Decoding Delhi-Belly: Street Food

George Bernard Shaw once said, “There is no love more sincere than the love of food.” And, anyone who loves food believes that it is all that it matters. In our best regional food in India series, our first stop is Delhi, the capital which is not just famous for its political reasons but mainly for its love for food.

Delhi is famous for its street food that is full of great flavours that make it equally interesting to explore.“People are generally proud of their food. A willingness to eat and drink with people without fear and prejudice… they open up to you in ways that somebody visiting who is driven by a story may not get,” according to Anthony Bourdin.

Delhi is also called Delhi-Belly, ever wondered why?

While exploring and interacting with Delhi, one thing that you will find the most common is their love for food. Food makes the society here, holds the fabric together in a lot of ways that are both interesting and charming and intoxicating. As different cultures settled in Delhi with time due to different rulers and later, migration the city acquired an identity of different tastes that were left behind. Mughlai cuisine became the most famous because of the Mughals Even the famous traveler, Marco Polo recalls that kebabs were served during the Delhi Sultanate and was enjoyed by the royalty and commoners alike.

There is no doubt to the fact that eating out on the streets in Delhi is not just another culinary experience, but a course in history, and sociology of India all rolled into one. If you’re looking to take a break from the usual fine dining places then, street food is the one thing you should be looking for to take the epic gastronomical journey through the heart of Delhi. Here’s the top dishes that you need to try at least once:

1. Chhole Bhature

What is it? This is an iconic Punjabi dish and lives in the heart of the people of Delhi. Chhole (chickpeas) prepared with earthy spices like cumin, anardana, garam-masala and coriander in a thick onion and tomato gravy, which is accompanied with perfect fluffy bhatura, i.e. fried dough. This dish is served with onions, chutney and spiced buttermilk.

Where to try? Sitaram Diwan Chand in Paharganj has been serving the tastiest Chhole Chature in town since partition of India. Do finish off your meal with their Mango Lassi.

2. Kebabs

What is it? The Kebabs are mouthwatering marinated fish and meat, grilled on burning charcoal and then served with chutney and onions.

Where to try? Qureshi Kebab Corner in the chaotic lanes of Old Delhi is the place to be currently run by the fifth generation of the family. Or, you can also head to Ghalib Kebab corner opposite the Markazi mosque in Nizamuddin for the best Kebab experiences in the world.

3. Paratha

What is it? No food trip to Delhi is complete without trying out parathas, wheat dough stuffed with various fillings – from potatoes, spinach, fenugreek, cauliflower to even chicken. It is usually served with butter, curd and pickle.

Where to try? Head to Parathe Wali Gali in Chandni Chowk for no-fail paratha experience with some of the most unusual fillings like bananas, rabri, okra and even dry-fruits.

4. Jalebi

What is it? Very popular among the sweet-toothed ones, Jalebis are deep-fried (in ghee) batter soaked in sugar syrup

Where to try? Old Famous Jalebiwala in Chandni Chowk is the place to try out the most authentic and tasty treats since they have been following the exclusive family recipe for the past century.

5. Chaat

What is it? Chhat is one thing that you will keep wanting for more; comes in a varied range, namely gol gappas (fried dumpling with chickpeas and potato fillings served with a tangy and spicy liquid called jal jeera), aloo chaat (deep-fried potatoes topped with spiced yogurt, tangy chutneys and crispy mixtures) and Raj Kachori (a savoury fried dumplings stuffed with chickpeas and potatoes topped with yogurt and tangy chutneys.)

Where to try? Anywhere in Chandni Chowk but TDI’s personal favourites are Shree Balaji Chaat Bhandar or Natraj Dahi Bhalle Wala.

6. Shahi Tukda

What is it? This is one of the gems of Mughlai cuisines – a deep fried bread soaked in sugar syrup and creamy custard, served with plenty of dry-fruit toppings.

Where to try? Kallan Sweets near Jama Masjid in Old Delhi is the place not to be missed for its amazing Shahi Tukda since 1939.

7. Kachori

What is it? Kachori is a quick snack – flaky fried dumpling with spiced moong lentil filling usually served with potato curry, chutney, tomatoes and sev.

Where to try? Jung Bahadur Kachori Wala, since 1940, has been known to make the crispiest kachoris in town.

8. Kulfi

What is it? Be it summer or winter in India, Kulfi is your best bet. This 16th Century old style recipe of frozen caramelised milk with dash of dry fruits, mainly saffron, pista and cardamom is TDI’s best frozen desserts.

Where to try? Roshan Di Kulfi in Karol Bagh is best known for its Kulfi preparations.

8. Nihari

What is it? The word “Nihar” first originated from the Arabic word, “Nahar” which means “morning”. Nihari is a slow cooked meat mainly shank meat of beef or lamb and mutton, along with bone marrow which was originally eaten by the Nawabs in the Mughal Empire as a breakfast. According to food historians, Nihari, as a recipe was developed in Old Delhi.

Where to try? A must try as a breakfast item, same as it was done in the past – don’t think twice! Karim’s in Old Delhi is exactly the place you are looking for to try this sell out dish. The legend says that Mohammed Aziz, father of the man behind Karim’s used to cook in the royal kitchen. But after the British forced Emperor Bahadur Shah Zafar into exile, Aziz and most of his colleagues fled the city too. In 1911, when the coronation of King George V happened in Delhi, Aziz’s son Haji Karimuddin returned and opened a tiny stall, which what we know of as Karim’s now.